Updated September 2026
Quick answer: In the only published head-to-head trial (Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology, 2019), 0.5% bakuchiol and 0.5% retinol produced comparable improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and pigmentation over 12 weeks — but the retinol group reported significantly more peeling and stinging. Bakuchiol is the better-tolerated option; retinol has the deeper evidence base.
Most people don't quit retinol because it stopped working. They quit around week three, when their face is flaking, their moisturizer stings going on, and the trade looks worse than the wrinkles. That's the gap bakuchiol stepped into — and unlike most "gentle alternative" ingredients, it has actually been put head-to-head with retinol in a peer-reviewed trial.
This guide covers what that trial found, what it didn't, how the two ingredients compare in practice, which suits your skin type, and how to build a routine around bakuchiol. Including the parts most brands leave out.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol (buh-KOO-chee-all) is a compound extracted from the seeds of the babchi plant, Psoralea corylifolia, used for centuries in Ayurvedic tradition. Structurally it is nothing like retinol — it isn't a retinoid, isn't a vitamin A derivative, and doesn't share retinol's chemistry at all.
That structural difference is the whole point. It behaves gently because it isn't a retinoid, not because it's a watered-down one. Anyone selling you "natural retinol" is describing a molecule that doesn't exist. Bakuchiol is a plant-based alternative to retinol — a different ingredient that has been studied for similar visible results.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a form of vitamin A and one of the most researched ingredients in skincare. It's effective — but it comes with well-known trade-offs: dryness, peeling, increased sun sensitivity, and an adjustment period that can last weeks. It's also generally avoided during pregnancy and can be difficult for sensitive skin to tolerate at all.
The bakuchiol vs retinol study: what was actually measured
The reference point everyone cites is Dhaliwal et al., published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019 (180(2):289–296). Worth knowing the specifics, because almost nobody quotes them:
- 44 participants, randomized and double-blind — neither patients nor the assessing dermatologist knew who had which.
- 12 weeks. Bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily; retinol 0.5% once daily.
- Measured two ways: computer analysis of standardized facial photos (fine-wrinkle surface area and pigment), and in-person grading by a blinded dermatologist (pigmentation, redness, and scaling).
| Result at 12 weeks | Bakuchiol | Retinol |
|---|---|---|
| Fine-wrinkle surface area | Down 19.0% | Down 23.2% |
| Participants with improved hyperpigmentation (dermatologist-graded) | 59% | 44% |
| Facial scaling & stinging reported | Significantly less | More |
Both groups showed a significant decrease in wrinkle surface area and pigmentation, and the difference between the two groups was not statistically significant. Where they diverged was tolerance: the retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and more stinging.
Read that carefully, because it's more interesting than the marketing version. The finding isn't that bakuchiol beat retinol. It's that over 12 weeks, at that concentration, the trial couldn't tell them apart on results — while it could clearly tell them apart on irritation.
The timeline, week by week
Fine-wrinkle surface area fell 5.0%, 6.4%, and 19.0% at weeks 4, 8, and 12 with bakuchiol, versus 8.3%, 11.1%, and 23.2% with retinol. Change was slow early and clearer by week 12, which is why we suggest giving any routine two to three months. More on that in how long bakuchiol takes to work.
What the study does not show
- 44 people is a small trial. One study is a signal, not settled science.
- It tested the ingredient at 0.5% in a research formulation — not our serum, and not any other brand's.
- Twelve weeks says nothing about year three.
- It did not test bakuchiol against prescription tretinoin, which is a different tier of product entirely.
- Bakuchiol was applied twice a day and retinol once, so the comparison isn't dose-for-dose.
- Participants were mostly women (41 of 44), aged 31 to 56, and seven didn't finish (all 44 were included in the analysis).
- Bakuchiol wasn't reaction-free: its group showed a trend toward more redness at week 4, which had settled by weeks 8 and 12.
- Both study creams were made in the same base by Sytheon, a bakuchiol ingredient supplier; the study was funded by UC Davis's dermatology department. Citation: DOI 10.1111/bjd.16918.
Bakuchiol vs retinol at a glance
| Bakuchiol | Retinol | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Plant-derived compound (babchi seed) | Vitamin A derivative |
| Adjustment period | None — full strength from night one | Typically 4–12 weeks of ramping up |
| Peeling / stinging | Uncommon | Common early on |
| Sun sensitivity | Not known to increase it | Increases it — night use, SPF essential |
| Time of day | Morning or night | Night only |
| Layering with acids / vitamin C | No special rules | Needs careful scheduling |
| Stability | Stable in oil-based formulas | Degrades with light and air |
| Maximum available strength | Cosmetic strength only | Goes up to prescription tretinoin |
The honest summary: if your skin tolerates retinol happily and you want the strongest option that exists, a prescription retinoid is still the heavyweight. Bakuchiol is for everyone in the much larger group who either can't tolerate that or won't stay consistent with it — and consistency is the variable that actually decides whether anyone sees a change.
Which is right for your skin type?
- Sensitive or reactive skin — bakuchiol. Retinol's scaling and stinging is exactly what this skin can't afford.
- Dry or mature skin — bakuchiol in an oil base does double duty: the active plus nourishing lipids. Retinol's drying effect is a real cost here.
- Oily or breakout-prone skin — either can work. If you go bakuchiol, a lighter gel base sits better; if you tolerate retinol, it has the longer track record on the look of congestion.
- Retinol beginners — bakuchiol lets you skip the adjustment period entirely.
- Anyone who quit retinol once already — bakuchiol. The most common reason routines fail isn't the ingredient, it's abandonment.
- Pregnant or nursing — retinoids are generally avoided; bakuchiol hasn't been studied in pregnancy specifically. Ask your doctor before adding any active.
- Already happy on retinol or tretinoin — stay. Bakuchiol can be an off-night step, not a mandatory switch.
What to look for in a bakuchiol serum
- A concentration you can actually find. If the percentage isn't published anywhere, assume it's low. The research concentration is 0.5%.
- Where bakuchiol sits in the INCI list. Near the bottom, past the preservatives, tells you more than the front of the bottle does.
- A base that suits your skin. Oil serums suit dry and mature skin; if you're oily or breakout-prone, a lighter gel base will sit better under moisturizer.
Ours is an oil serum — bakuchiol carried in cold-pressed rosehip, jojoba, and Nordic berry seed oils. The complete INCI is published on the Bakuchiol Night Serum page, every ingredient and every allergen. Compare it against anything else you're considering; that's the point of publishing it.
How to use bakuchiol in your routine
No layering rules to memorise, which is most of the appeal.
- Cleanse with a gentle, non-stripping cleansing foam or micellar water.
- Tone (optional) with a hydrating toner.
- Treat. In the evening, warm 3–4 drops of the Bakuchiol Night Serum between your palms and press into face and neck.
- Moisturize with a ceramide night cream to seal it in overnight.
- Mornings: pair with an antioxidant like the Vitamin C Glow Serum under moisturizer and SPF. Vitamin C by day, bakuchiol by night — which is exactly why we bundle them as the Day & Night Duo.
Step-by-step detail, including how it fits around exfoliating nights, is in How to Use a Bakuchiol Serum.
Bakuchiol FAQ
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
In the one head-to-head trial that exists, over 12 weeks at 0.5%, the difference in visible improvement between the two groups wasn't statistically significant — and the retinol group reported more scaling and stinging. That's a genuine result from a small study, not a guarantee about any particular product. Prescription retinoids remain the strongest option available.
Can I use bakuchiol every day?
Yes — morning and night, from day one, no ramp-up. Patch test first, as with anything new.
Can I use bakuchiol in the morning?
Yes. Bakuchiol isn't known to increase sun sensitivity, so it works morning or night. Daily SPF is still non-negotiable.
Can I use bakuchiol with vitamin C, niacinamide, or acids?
Yes. It doesn't carry retinol's layering conflicts: vitamin C in the morning, bakuchiol at night, exfoliating acids on alternate evenings if you use them.
Can you use bakuchiol with retinol?
Yes. Some people alternate nights, or use bakuchiol as their "off-night" step to keep results going while giving skin a break from retinol. If you're happy with bakuchiol alone, there's no need to add retinol at all.
Does bakuchiol cause purging?
It isn't associated with a purge phase, which is the single most common reason people abandon retinol in the first month.
Does bakuchiol help with acne?
It may help the look of blemish-prone skin without the irritation stronger actives can cause, but it isn't an acne medication and shouldn't replace treatment for persistent or cystic acne — a dermatologist is the right call there.
How long until I see results?
The research measured changes at 12 weeks of twice-daily use. Plan for two to three months before judging — consistency beats intensity every time.
Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy?
People often reach for it because retinoids are avoided in pregnancy, but bakuchiol hasn't been studied for that specifically. "Not enough evidence of harm" is not the same as "proven safe." Ask your doctor or midwife before adding any active if you're pregnant or nursing.
The honest bottom line
No single ingredient is a miracle, and any brand promising one is selling you something. What bakuchiol has is a real trial, a plausible mechanism, and an irritation profile people can actually live with — which matters, because the routine that works is the one you don't quit.
The full ingredient list for our Bakuchiol Night Serum is on the product page. Every ingredient, every allergen, in plain English. Read the label. We dare you.
Keep reading: how to start a retinol alternative routine · what to mix with bakuchiol · peptides vs retinol
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The bakuchiol routine from the guide above
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This article is general information about cosmetic ingredients and isn't medical advice. Cosmetic products affect the appearance of skin; for skin conditions or medical concerns, talk to a dermatologist.